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Joseph Drouhin

Drouhin started as a negociant, the Domaine Drouhin didn't come into play until the early 1900's when Joseph's son Maurice starting running the business. Now 4 great-grand children together bring the wines to the world. Drouhin hired the first women enologist of Burgundy, Laurence Jobard, who taught Veronique Drouhin about the science. From Burghound: "after 33 years with Maison Drouhin as the firm's technical director and winemaker, Mme Laurence Jobard has retired. She passes the torch to the 36 year old M. Jàràme Faure-Brac. M. Faure-Brac is an enologist and his professional credentials include wine making-stints in Champagne and Domaine du Clos Frantin, which is owned by Maison Bichot. Mme Vàronique Drouhin, who is also a trained enologist, will broaden her role within the company as it will be her responsibility to insure that the house style emphasizing finesse and elegance continues under M. Faure-Brac." Drouhin also has a property in Oregon, Domaine Drouhin Oregon.

Chablis 2004 20.89

Chablis 1er 2005 30.00

Chambertin Grand Cru 1996 154.99

Chassagne "Mont Marquis" 2001 125.00

Clos St Denis 2005 195.00

Corton Charlemagne 185.00

Cote de Nuits Villages 2005 23.00

Laforet Bourgogne Blanc 15.39

Romanee St. Vivant 1995 135.00

Santenay 2005 30.79

Montrachet "Marquis de Laguishe" 2001 395.00

Montrachet "Marquis de Laguishe" 2005 750.00

Beaune "Clos de Mouches" Blanc 2005 125.00

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue can be traced back to 1450. It is thought of as the best estate in the renowned Le Musigny. With parcels in Bonnes Mares and Chambolle-Musigny as well, this Domaine is highly sought after. With the ever staggering Bourgogne Blanc, a highlight of any cellar, it is said to be the only premier cru white in all of Nuits. To get a 2005 vintage Vogue is a rare treat, but to hold onto other vintage is equally so, as Alan Meadows said on Bourghound: "The always thoughtful enologist François Millet called 2005 a "very expressive vintage as the wines are already singing. The growing season was very dry which concentrated the berries as well as the phenolic maturity resulting in very impressive dry extract to liquid ratios. While it's hard to believe, there was not a lot of juice and the wines are almost as dense as they were in 2003. But it was of course much cooler which helped to preserve acidity and the pHs reflect it. The growing season wasn't 100% perfect as we suffered a bit of hail damage but it was so early on that it was more a question of quality than quantity. The harvest took place under ideal conditions and we brought in across all of our appellations about 30 hl/ha with excellent sugars that ranged between 13 and 13.5%. The aromas are very ripe but the acidity helps to keep them fresh and lends real vibrancy to the wines. One of the aspects that I very much like is that the aromas also are quite floral, which adds another element of aromatic complexity. Overall the '05s are big and powerful wines but they do not lack for elegance. The skins were so thick that I was actually afraid of making overly powerful and inelegant wines but happily, in my view they are very well balanced and should age well." While the de Vogüé '05s are clearly incredible wines, I can't say enough good things about how good their '04s have turned out. Indeed if an entire group of wines is considered, then the de Vogüé '04s would be on my very, very short list of candidates for wines of the vintage."

Vogue Chambolle Musigny 1er '01 750 150.00

Vogue Chambolle Musigny Village '91 750 180.00

Vogue Bourgogne Blanc '05 750 245.00

Vogue Chambolle Musigny Village '05 750 140.00

Domaine Robert Groffier

The Domaine is now run by Robert's son Serge, and is meticulously handled, starting with the vines themselves. Serge uses flexibility in his winemaking, changing vintage to vintage, in order to preserve the natural resources each vintage brings. Some years he will use stalks in his fermentation and some years he does not. His wines bring forth elegance, rich and ripe with meaty lush bones. Although 2004 was thought to be a difficult vintage, Groffier tackled it with full force, and as Alan Meadows of Burghound recounts it: "Serge Groffier, Robert's son, like many of his colleagues said that 2004 was "all about viticulture. Sure, you had to watch what you were doing in the cuvérie to not over extract and to make sure that you were only working with ultra clean fine lees but if you didn't do what was necessary in the vineyards, worrying about it later would be the tail wagging the dog. We treated early and were rewarded because we had no difficulties with oidium. We controlled yields and harvested carefully as the irregular aspect of the crop required a thorough triage. Sugars were excellent at around 13.2% and acidities were near perfect. We first did a really serious débourbage (settling of must to eliminate the gross, and presumably less clean, lees) and shortened the pre-fermentation maceration as well as the total cuvaison (vatting time) from 21 days to 15 while doing fewer punch downs as well. In contrast to 2003 where the musts were almost instantly black, the colors came very slowly in 2004 though the malos were about normal. I like 2004 and while it's not a great vintage, it's spicy, pure and reminds me somewhat of 2001." The present plan is to bottle in December and January without fining or filtration. The wines had been racked 3 weeks before my visit and were showing brilliantly, from the simply Bourgogne PTG to the Clos de Bèze and I cannot remember a better Hauts Doix from barrel." This house is one to watch and not to miss.

Chambertin "Clos de Beze" 2004 250.00

Bonnes Mares 2004 205.00

Chambolle Musigny "Haut Doix" 2004 125.00

Chambolle Musigny "Haut Doix" 2005 125.00

Chambolle Musigny "Les Amoureuses" 2004 200.00

Musigny 1er "Sentiers" 2005 136.00

Domaine Perrot Minot

Prior to retiring, Henri Perrot Minot sold a good portion of his wines to negociants. Now under the direction of his son Christophe, all wines are estate bottled. Perrot Minot is remarkably becoming among collectors' favorites. With wines both Village and Premier Cru, his wines are meticulously prepared and bottled to perfection. "The always frank Christophe Perrot-Minot said that "we had a perfect growing season in 2005. In fact, it was almost easy, which after the last few vintages was honestly a nice break. We had a bit of hail damage in La Combe d'Orveau and Richemone but that was more an issue of quantity than quality and these two vineyards aside, yields were in the 30 to 35 hl/ha range. It was a very clean harvest with very little sorting necessary and sugars were excellent coming in between 12.8 to 13.6%, which means I did not chaptalize. The harvest temperatures were cool and in terms of the fermentations, they reminded me somewhat of 2002 as those were slow to begin as well. And like the 2002s, the 2005s were balanced from the beginning. I really like this vintage as it has everything it needs with very ripe phenolics and a purity of expression that allows each wine to express its individuality clearly. I believe 2005 is a great vintage but whether it's truly the best vintage in a generation? Well, I prefer to say that it could be and wait to see how the wines develop for a few years in bottle first before making such grandiose pronouncements. Still, it's clear that there is great potential." As I commented last Issue, the stylistic evolution of Perrot-Minot's wines continues as he moves toward increasing elegance and detail with more refined tannins and better balance. He credits the finer tannins to working much more with pump overs than punch downs in the last few vintages. This group of '05s is a really lovely set of wines that is worth a serious look. The wines are to be bottled in December and January without fining or filtration."-Alan Meadows

H.P.M. Bourgogne Rouge 2005 $47.69

C.P.M. Gevrey Chambertin Vielle Vignes 2004 $124.00

H.P.M. Gevrey Chambertin 2004 $76.49

C.P.M. Gevrey Chambertin "Les Perrieres" 2004 $132.89

H.P.M. Gevrey Chambertin 2005 $93.29

H.P.M. Chambertin "Clos de Bez" 2005 $1100.00

H.P.M. Charmes Chambertin 2004 $225.00

C.P.M. Chapelle Chambertin 2004 $216.00

C.P.M. Chapelle Chambertin 2005 $275.00

H.P.M. Mazoyeres Chambertin 2004 $230.00

H.P.M. Mazoyeres Chambertin 2005 $495.00

H.P.M. Morey St Denis 2004 $84.00

H.P.M. Morey St Denis "La Riotte" 2005 $185.00

C.P.M. Chambolle Musigny" Fuees" 1997 $206.99

C.P.M. Chambolle Musigny 2004 $85.00

H.P.M. Chambolle Musigny "La Combe d'Orveau" 2004 $217.00

H.P.M. Chambolle Musigny "La Combe d'Orveau" 2005 $289.00

C.P.M. Clos Vougeot 2004 $180.00

C.P.M. Clos Vougeot 2005 $240.00

Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

"This is a relatively new 7.5 ha domaine that began in 2002 and has added some négociant wines so the total effective vineyard area is 9 ha; the négociant name is Thibault Liger-Belair Successeurs". It is directed by the young Thibault Liger-Belair, who is a cousin of Louis-Michel Liger-Belair (see above). The approach here is to use biodynamic farming in some but not all of the vineyards and the harvest is done manually with a double sorting regimen, which is once in the vineyard and again at the cuvérie. The fruit is not systematically destemmed and depending on the ripeness of the stems, may include all, none or some of them. As Liger-Belair repeated several times "we have no rules and are willing to change anything and everything if the conditions warrant it." The fruit is cold soaked at around 12º C for 4 to 6 days and then is fermented over a 15 to 22 day period with relatively little punching down but daily pump overs. A very light débourbage (lees settling) precedes the transfer into cask, which is done by gravity and no pumps. Liger-Belair also noted that he likes to work with mild reduction and thus is disinclined to rack unless absolutely necessary. Indeed this was the case as a number of these '05s showed varying degrees of reduction. Finally, the wines remain in cask for 12 to 16 months where they are then bottled without fining or filtration, again unless necessary. My take on these largely traditionally styled wines is that they will continue to improve as Liger-Belair gains experience, not only with the winemaking but also his vineyard management practices. In short, a domaine to watch as Liger-Belair has both the passion and the vineyards to make his mark."-Alan Meadows

Nuit St Georges 2005 $130

Richebourg Grand Cru 2005 $450

Vosne Romanee 2005 $85

Clos Vougeots Grand Cru 2005 $180

Corton "Les Rognets" 2005 $132

Corton "Renardes" 2005 $148

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