Rob Evans of Hugo's
Mark Grosz of Oceanique , Evanston Illinois
Bill Telepan of Telepan, New York City
PORTLAND, Maine – Rob Evans is carving a niche out for himself in Maine's modest fine dining community. It may be a long way from New York City, but the dishes created at his restaurant could grace the tables at any major metropolitan bistro.
Evans is a pioneer of sorts in this area, and he's making Hugo's one of the top destinations for fine food connoisseurs all across New England, an area known more for clam chowder than foie gras. Over the past three and a half years, however, he has taken the region's best ingredients and put his unique signature on every entrée, and has gained a loyal following in the process.
"Starting out, we had to learn the town, to see what they'd let us do, and let them see what our restaurant was capable of," Evans said. "It was a slow approach, we didn't try too much esoteric stuff at first. We had to earn our customers' trust. We're pretty close to who we want to be, but food-wise, I want to keep going further."
Evans is adamant about utilizing Maine ingredients, from lemon sole fillets to organic elk meat from a nearby farm. "Regionality [sic] is definitely our focus, it's our mission statement," he said. "I'm very excited about the quality of local products."
The Hugo's menu is full of local foods like organically grown root vegetables, wild mushrooms harvested by foragers during the summer ("the Matsutakes here are almost truffle-like," he said) and of course, seafood from Browne Trading Company, their main fish vendor. Hugo's focuses on North Atlantic species like cod, hake, skate wings and diver-harvested scallops; and more specialized seasonal items like sea urchins and baby glass eels.
"I give Browne Trading a lot of credit for our reputation," Evans admitted. "The quality is so dependable, that we've sort of gotten into the habit of not checking the fish when it's delivered. I find it impossible not to use you guys. What a bonus, to be in the same town as the best fish market."
While Evans, who hails from Southboro, Mass., was not formally schooled in cuisine, his education has come from some of the finest chefs in the country. Two of them are former James Beard Foundation award winners for America's top chef: Patrick O'Connell of the Inn at Little Washington in Virginia, and Thomas Keller, of the world-renowned French Laundry in Yountville, California. Working with these men influenced his work and gave Evans the confidence to step out and start his own restaurant.
In September 2000 he bought Hugo's Bistro on Middle Street in Portland. He thought the name was strong and kept it, but everything inside was completely changed. What didn't change was the skepticism about the survival of an upscale restaurant in this blue-collar town.
"People gave us six months when we first opened," he said. "You have to gain trust, and before long your personality penetrates your business, and it becomes unique unto itself. Now I feel that I can try anything, do anything…I can break the mold."
Visit Hugo's
Portland, Maine
88 Middle Street
Portland, Maine
207.774.8538
