Mark Grosz of Oceanique
Bill Telepan of Telepan, New York City
Rob Evans of Hugo's, Portland Maine
Chef de cuisine and owner Mark Grosz worked under the tutelage of renowned chef Jean Banchet of the world famous Le Francais in Wheeling, Illinois in the early 80's. He further refined his skills in France and Hong Kong, and has served as head chef and culinary impresario at a variety of restaurants and private clubs in Illinois and Michigan.
In 1989 Mark, together with three partners, opened Oceanique in its present-day Evanston location, a charming 1920s Spanish-style building. Mark, with his wife Renee as General Manager and son Philip as Head Sommelier, continues to offer discriminating diners some of the most creative and exquisite seafood and meat dishes prepared in the French tradition, with a modern American twist. In all of his preparations, Chef Grosz endeavors to use the finest organic produce and seafood from sustainable, eco-friendly sources.
Oceanique, is an eclectic seafood restaurant in the French-American style and has continued to garner acclaim as one of the Chicago area's finest restaurants. Since 1993, it has been ranked as the number one seafood restaurant in the Chicago metropolitan area by the prestigious Zagat Guide. And with its extensive wine list featuring over 700 carefully selected fine wines, Oceanique has won Wine Spectator Magazine's coveted "Award of Excellence" every year since 1994. In 2007 that award was promoted to "Best of Award of Excellence" and is now recognized as having one of the 700 best wine lists in the world.
We recently visited Chef Grosz and his restaurant and asked a few questions of him when we got back to Maine:
Browne: What is your favorite seafood dish to prepare at home for family and friends?
Chef Grosz: At home (and in the restaurant) my favorite fish is dover sole. Nothing really beats it – it has that wonderful texture and flavor. It is very easy to roast whole at home – plus you can still do that grand presentation tableside. Dover sole is a noble fish.
Browne: What do you consider the greatest culinary experience of your life?
Chef Grosz: I had the fortune of being able to cook for my all time favorite musician, Frank Zappa. This was back in 1988. A close friend of mine met Frank's guitarist, Ike Willis, and we connected through him. Turns out Frank is a huge fan of French cuisine. We got to go backstage during rehearsal and during the show. I brought a ton of food – pates, house smoked salmon, canapés & pastries – and I think Frank really enjoyed it. Frank said "Hey guys, come up on stage, thanks for the food!" It was a great time.
Browne: Who (or what) has had the greatest influence on your cooking?
Chef Grosz: Chef Jean Banchet, no question. Working at his Le France restaurant was like working in a Three Star France restaurant. In those days, that restaurant was widely considered one of the best in America. I had been cooking since I was twelve, and at twenty two I went in thinking I knew something about cooking. That experience changed everything for me. When I left three years later I literally threw out every recipe I had brought in with me. It had a life changing influence on me and my cooking.
Browne: What are the tools of the trade you use most in your home kitchen?
Chef Grosz: Having one utilitarian "everything" knife at home is invaluable. I have one Japanese knife that I have had for years and years, and with care, a quality knife will last a very long time. Another tool I love to have handy is a good, small whisk for quick sauces – or a hand held blender. Those blenders are great in the home kitchen – I make cold soups, my own mayonnaise, aioli, and whatever sauce suits the dish I am preparing. I would recommend staying away from pans made of aluminum. They do hold heat, but they change the flavor of the food, and tend to leave a residue behind over time. Copper or stainless steel are the way to go.
Browne: Tell us one secret about the selection or preparation of seafood.
Chef Grosz: Know your basics upfront. Always taste your food, and keep retasting as you cook. Always dry your fish off before preparation. This is easy to forget to do and can affect the texture when put to heat. I like to cook fish as simply as possible so that the essence of the fish itself is preserved and it can be truly enjoyed. And of course, when you are located in the middle of the country away from the ocean like I am, a trusting relationship with your fishmonger is essential. You have to know what you are really buying.
Oceanique
505 Main St.
Evanston, Illinois
p: 847.864.3435
www.oceanique.com
Click here to view two of Chef Grosz's Recipes:
"Dover Sole with Sea Urchin, Pea Tips, Golden Beets, and a Candied Lemon Essence"
"Slow Baked Salmon with Fingerling Potatoes and Seasonal Salad"
